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El Jem

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The amphitheatre built with oil money, olive oil was the source of great wealth in the 3rd Century Roman Empire.. Just as Rome was beginning its decline, this area of Tunisia became very rich on the production of olive oil ; it is thought that as many as 36,000 acres were under cultivation. To show off their wealth, the citizens of Thysdrus (as it was known then) built an amphitheatre in the 3nd Century AD. One of the largest in Africa and certainly more survives of it than the Colosseum in Rome. Capacity was 43,000 if you believe the Rough Guide, but 30,000 according to local information. In any case, this is a reasonably well preserved building (considering its age) which dominates this dusty little town.

The real prize in El Jem is the Archaeology Museum which is stunning. Many rooms with fine quality mosaics (apparently the North African - Thysdrus - artists were highly regarded throughout Rome after people had seen these mosaics). Then the unexpected treat .. the terrace of the museum leads out to a large area which once contained 4 Roman villas .. hundreds of rooms altogether. Just foundations and mosaic floors left .. perhaps 1/3 of the floors are mosaic.. mostly geometric patterns. the really high quality illustrative ones have been moved into the museum for safety. 'Africa House' is a modern reconstruction of part of the complex, just to show how the rooms interconnected and also to protect some good mosaics. This really is a fine museum ; I'm so glad I came, I nearly did not bother with El Jem (seen one Amphitheatre ..) but it is worthwhile.



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Stylised peacock feather

The fine print.

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